Portofino may get more postcards, but Santa Margherita Ligure is where the Italian Riviera feels lived in.
Known simply as Santa to locals and regular visitors, this colourful seaside town combines historic villas, traditional bakeries, beach clubs and independent shops, all within a compact and walkable centre.
Whether you are visiting for a day or staying for a summer weekend, here are the best things to see, eat and do in Santa Margherita Ligure.
1. Start with warm focaccia at Fiordiponti
In Liguria, focaccia is breakfast.
Begin your day at Fiordiponti, the historic bakery founded in Santa Margherita Ligure in 1982.
Order a piece of classic focaccia genovese while it is still warm. Crisp around the edges, soft in the centre and covered with olive oil and salt, it is the perfect introduction to Ligurian food.
You will find different varieties on the counter, but the classic version is always a good place to start.
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Local tip: Go in the morning, when the focaccia is fresh from the oven, and eat it while walking towards the sea. Ordering it with a cappuccino may sound unusual elsewhere in Italy, but in Liguria it makes perfect sense.
2. Walk the waterfront
From Fiordiponti, head towards Santa Margherita's seafront.
The promenade follows the harbour past fishing boats, yachts, palm trees and painted facades. Look closely and you will notice decorative trompe-l'oeil designed to resemble columns, cornices and window frames.
Continue towards the castle, then wander through the streets behind the waterfront, where cafes, churches and independent shops reveal the more everyday side of Santa.
3. Escape into the gardens of Villa Durazzo
For a quieter perspective on the town, climb to Villa Durazzo.
The historic villa overlooks Santa Margherita and is surrounded by a park filled with palms, statues, shaded paths and glimpses of the Gulf of Tigullio.
Even without visiting the interiors, the gardens are worth the short climb for the views and the break from the busy waterfront.
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4. Experience Santa's beach club culture at Bagni Sirena
Santa Margherita's historic beach clubs are part of the town's visual identity, with colourful cabins and rows of umbrellas lining the waterfront. The Financial Times highlighted these colour-coded bagni as one of Santa's most distinctive details.
For a classic local experience, visit Bagni Sirena, a long-established beach club beside the harbour.
The pebble beach, sun terraces, restaurant and waterfront location make it an easy place to swim, relax and have lunch without leaving the centre.
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Bagni Sirena |
Good to know: Book ahead during busy summer weekends and bring water shoes.
5. Have lunch by the sea
After your swim, stay at Bagni Sirena for lunch on the waterfront.
The restaurant focuses on seafood, local ingredients and contemporary Ligurian dishes, making it a practical option without interrupting the day.
Look out for fresh fish, anchovies, vegetable pies and pasta with pesto. A short menu and daily specials are usually a better sign than a long list of generic Italian classics.
6. Discover contemporary craft at the TA-DAAN Pop-Up
After lunch, head back into the centre for one of Santa Margherita's most exciting summer shopping destinations.
From July 10 to August 21, the TA-DAAN Summer Pop-Up takes over Via Anton Maria Maragliano 6, bringing contemporary craft and independent European design to the Italian Riviera.
Inside, you will find a curated and continually changing selection of handmade jewellery, ceramics, accessories, homeware and colourful summer objects created by independent makers.
These are not conventional souvenirs or mass-produced pieces. Every object carries the mark of the person who designed and made it, from the material they chose to the techniques they used and the small details that make handmade work unique.
New makers and pieces arrive throughout the season, alongside events, workshops and opportunities to meet some of the people behind the objects.
Like many independent shops along the Riviera, the Pop-Up follows the slower rhythm of the Ligurian summer. It is open in the morning, closed during the hottest hours and open again for the late-afternoon passeggiata.
TA-DAAN SUMMER POP-UP
- Via Anton Maria Maragliano 6, Santa Margherita Ligure
- July 10 to August 21 | Open every day
- 10:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 20:00
7. End the day with aperitivo at Le Vernissage
Finish the day at Le Vernissage, a lounge bar set along a staircase overlooking the harbour.
Its unusual location and views over the boats make it a memorable spot for a sunset cocktail or aperitivo.
Arrive early for the best seats and watch Santa settle into its evening rhythm.
Is Santa Margherita Ligure worth visiting?
Yes. Santa Margherita combines beaches, traditional food, historic architecture and independent shopping in a compact centre that can easily be explored on foot.
One full day is enough for this itinerary, while a longer stay gives you time to visit Portofino, Paraggi or San Fruttuoso.
Discover the slower side of the Italian Riviera
The best way to experience Santa Margherita Ligure is not to rush through it on the way to somewhere more famous.
Eat focaccia while it is still warm. Look closely at the painted facades. Swim from a colourful beach club. Walk through a garden without checking the time. Discover the hands and stories behind an object you will keep long after the summer is over.
While you are wandering through town, stop at the TA-DAAN Summer Pop-Up in Via Anton Maria Maragliano 6 to discover what contemporary European craftsmanship looks like by the sea.
This guide was created by TA-DAAN, the contemporary craft community behind the Summer Pop-Up in Santa Margherita Ligure.